Let’s be honest, some people dream of candlelit dinners, a bottle of scent or surprise bouquets. Me? I dream of cheese. A place where the air carries the scent of aged Manchego and where every bite is a love letter to my taste buds. Forget roses. Bring me a cheese board, and I’ll swoon on the spot. That’s why, for the ultimate romantic getaway, I’d head to Zuheros in Córdoba province, a pretty village that also happens to be a cheese lover’s paradise.
Zuheros is one of those places that feels like it belongs in a storybook. Tucked away in the southeast of Córdoba province, in the heart of the famous Subbética Cordobesa region, this whitewashed village has managed to keep its historic charm beautifully intact. In fact, it’s so well preserved that it was officially declared a historic and artistic site in 2003.
And as if that wasn’t enough of a stamp of approval, in 2016, Zuheros joined the prestigious ranks of Los Pueblos Más Bonitos de España, a network celebrating Spain’s most beautiful villages.
Zuheros dates back to the 9th century when an Arab tribe, the Banu-Himsi, settled in the area, giving it the name Sujayra, a nod to the dramatic cliffs that surround it. During the Caliphate of Córdoba, Sujayra sat on one of the most crucial trade and travel routes of the time, linking Córdoba and Granada. It’s safe to say that Zuheros has been a sought-after spot for centuries!
What to see and do in Zuheros
Explore the Castle of Zuheros
Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop, the Castillo de Zuheros dates back to the 9th century. This Moorish fortress offers panoramic views over the surrounding olive groves and the Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park.
Discover the Cueva de los Murciélagos
Just outside the village, the Cueva de los Murciélagos (Bat Cave) is one of Andalucia’s most important prehistoric sites. With cave paintings dating back over 4,000 years, it provides a fascinating glimpse into the region’s early inhabitants. A guided tour takes you through impressive rock formations and ancient engravings.
Stroll Through the Village
Zuheros itself is a delight to explore on foot. Its narrow, winding streets are lined with whitewashed houses, adorned with colourful flowerpots. Stop by the Museo de Costumbres y Artes Populares Juan Fernández Cruz to learn about the area’s rural traditions, from olive oil production to traditional crafts.
Hike in the Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park
For nature lovers, Zuheros is a gateway to the Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park. This rugged landscape is ideal for hiking, cycling, and birdwatching. Trails lead through olive groves, limestone cliffs, and deep valleys, offering breathtaking views at every turn.
The Annual Cheese Fair – Feria del Queso
One of Zuheros’ biggest draws is its Feria del Queso, held every September. This cheese fair attracts artisan producers from across Spain, with an incredible variety of cheeses. From creamy goat’s cheese to aged Manchego, it’s a paradise for cheese lovers. Sample different varieties, meet local cheesemakers, and pair your tastings with some excellent local wine. (Definitely better than flowers!)
Take a Cheese Tour at Los Balanchares
For an even deeper dive into the world of cheese, visit Los Balanchares, where you can join a guided tour to see how traditional goat and sheep cheeses are made. Learn about the artisanal process, taste freshly made cheese, and leave with a newfound appreciation (and probably a bag full of cheese to take home).
At TOMA & COE, we understand people with a passion for travel, cuisine, art and the discovery of little corners where local culture reveals itself. That’s why our tours are designed to reveal these secrets, and why if you’ve heard of somewhere like Zuheros, we can organise a bespoke tour for you.
