Tucked away in the province of Jaén, the twin towns of Úbeda and Baeza are two of Andalucia’s best-kept secrets. Renowned for their well-preserved Renaissance architecture, these UNESCO-listed towns are a far cry from the bustle of the bigger cities like Seville and Málaga.
Whether you’re looking for a day trip from Granada or Córdoba or planning a weekend escape, Úbeda and Baeza deliver a delightful mix of history, culture, and gastronomy. They are one of my favourite places to visit.
Why Visit Úbeda and Baeza?
The province of Jaén, alongside Huelva and Almeria, is one of Andalucia’s overlooked provinces. And yet, within the province you’ll find castles galore – you can follow the Ruta de Castillos (Castle Route) – and these two picturesque and historic towns.
Úbeda and Baeza provide a more intimate glimpse into Spain’s Renaissance past. Strolling through their atmospheric streets, you’ll encounter grand palaces, majestic churches, and sun-drenched plazas that remain largely untouched by mass tourism. With their compact size, the towns are easy to explore on foot, making them perfect for a leisurely escape.
What to See in Úbeda
Úbeda is often called the ‘jewel of the Spanish Renaissance’ due to its beautiful 16th-century architecture. Start your visit at the Plaza Vázquez de Molina, where you’ll find the impressive Sacra Capilla del Salvador, a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance art. Designed by the architect Diego de Siloé, its ornate facade and gilded altarpiece are must-sees.
Nearby, the Palacio de las Cadenas stands out with its elaborate stonework, while the Santa María de los Reales Alcázares church offers a fascinating blend of Gothic, Mudejar, and Renaissance elements.
For a deeper dive into local history, visit the Sinagoga del Agua, an evocative archaeological site revealing remnants of an ancient Jewish synagogue. Then, wander down Calle Real, a charming street lined with traditional Andalusian houses, artisan workshops, and quaint boutiques.
Discover our Sephardic Jewish Heritage Tour
What to See in Baeza
Just a 10-minute drive from Úbeda, Baeza is slightly smaller but equally enchanting. The Plaza de Santa María is the heart of the town, home to the Catedral de Baeza, a magnificent Renaissance structure built on the site of a former mosque. Climb the bell tower for breathtaking views over the surrounding olive groves.
Baeza’s old university, the Antigua Universidad, is another highlight. The famous poet Antonio Machado once taught here, and you can still visit the preserved lecture hall where he gave his lessons.
For a true sense of the town’s grandeur, take a stroll down Paseo de la Constitución, where historic mansions and shaded cafes invite you to sit and soak in the atmosphere. Don’t miss the Fuente de Santa María, an ornate Renaissance fountain.
What to Eat and Drink
When I first visited Úbeda, I was enjoying a cooling beer after a day in an early year heatwave (41º in mid-June, hot even by Jaén standards!), when I noticed that every single table had a glass of tiny striped snails in a broth. These were caracoles a la andaluza. The snail season is April to June and the locals devour these tasty morsels at every opportunity during those months. Slow cooked in a spicy broth, one glass may not be enough!
Jaén province is also the world’s leading producer of olive oil, and you can taste its liquid gold in almost every dish.
Start with ochios, small bread rolls seasoned with paprika, often served with rich pates, morcilla (black pudding) or local cheeses. Another must-try is andrajos, a hearty dish made with rabbit or cod, tomatoes, and hand-torn pieces of flour dough, reminiscent of a rustic pasta.
For meat lovers, lomo de orza (slow-cooked pork loin preserved in olive oil) is a regional favourite, best enjoyed with a glass of local wine. To finish, indulge in bizcocho de almendra, a delicious almond sponge cake, often paired with a sweet anisette liqueur.
Perfect for a Day Trip or a Weekend Getaway
If you’re short on time, a day trip from Granada (1.5 hours) or Córdoba (2 hours) allows you to visit both towns in one go. Start early in Úbeda, enjoy lunch in one of its traditional taverns, then move on to Baeza for an afternoon of exploration before heading back.
For those who prefer a more relaxed experience, an overnight stay lets you truly soak up the charm of both towns. Stay in a historic parador or a boutique hotel in the old town and enjoy the slow rhythm of life in Andalucia’s Renaissance heartland.
Whether you’re drawn to the grandeur of Spanish Renaissance architecture, the rich cultural heritage, or the enticing local cuisine, TOMA & COE’s local guide will open your eyes to all Úbeda and Baeza have to offer.
