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Lucena – Andalucía’s craft town

Tucked beneath the undulating hills of Córdoba’s Subbética region, Lucena is a town that rarely appears on the traditional traveller’s map, and that’s precisely what makes it so compelling. Known as the Perla de Sefarad, or “Pearl of Sepharad,” Lucena once stood as a beacon of Jewish learning and craftsmanship in medieval Spain.

Lucena

Today, Lucena’s story unfolds in a golden haze of olive groves, baroque facades, and artisan workshops humming with quiet pride.

Three cultures, one remarkable town

Lucena’s past is etched into its very foundations. Begin at the Castle of Lucena, originally built by Moors and later transformed under Christian rule. From its towers, you glimpse the town’s blend of three cultures — Islamic, Jewish, and Christian — reflected in its architecture.

Church of San Mateo CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3506156

One of Lucena’s most remarkable treasures lay underground – the Jewish Necropolis, one of the oldest and most extensive in Europe. The tombs, unearthed in the 2000s, offer a rare, solemn glimpse into Sephardic customs, before the Inquisition.

Join us on our Sephardic Jewish Heritage Tour

At the San Mateo Church, grandeur takes baroque form in its golden altarpiece glowing. The church stands on the site of an ancient synagogue, then mosque before becoming a Christian place of worship. Meanwhile, the Palacio de los Condes de Santa Ana provides a graceful retreat into 18th-century elegance, now hosting exhibitions and events.

Lucena is also famed for its mastery of artisan bronze and furniture. The town’s workshops, some family-run for generations, continue to produce exquisite hand-carved pieces.

A taste of Lucena

The olive oil here is some of the finest in Andalucía: peppery, green, and fresh. Begin your culinary journey with a tasting at a local olive mill, where you’ll also learn how the surrounding sea of olive trees supports a way of life.

When it’s time to dine, Lucena punches well above its weight. Restaurante Tres Culturas lives up to its name, marrying Jewish, Arab, and Christian flavours in refined, seasonal dishes. For something more casual, Bodeguita del Casino offers classic Cordoban tapas.

Take the scenic route

Lucena is perfectly placed for slow, thoughtful travel. It sits just under an hour’s drive from Córdoba, and less than 40 minutes from Antequera, another under-appreciated jewel with prehistoric dolmens and a brooding Moorish fortress.

If you’re tracing the arc of Andalucía’s hidden heritage, combine Lucena with stops in Priego de Córdoba — famed for its fountains and rococo churches — or Zuheros, a white village perched dramatically above a gorge.

Also Read: Zuheros – a cheese lover’s dream

Why Lucena?

Castillo del Moral (Lucena, Córdoba) / Jose Lucas / ALAMY

Because it’s not trying to be anything other than itself; warm, historic, quietly elegant. Lucena doesn’t shout. It offers space, time, and stories. A pause between grander stops, yes, but one that rewards curiosity with depth.

At TOMA & COE, we believe in exploring Andalucía’s soul one town, one table, one forgotten path at a time. If you’d like to discover Andalucia’s lesser-known treasures, contact us to arrange a trip of a lifetime.

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