Add a day of discovery to your Granada itinerary
Just 45 minutes east of Granada, beyond the Sierra de Huétor’s rugged folds, lies a town often missed by those rushing between the Alhambra and the Alpujarra. But Guadix is no ordinary detour. It offers something far rarer, a still-authentic pocket of Andalucian life where the landscape and lifestyle have evolved together over centuries.
The first glimpse of Guadix surprises. Beyond its cathedral and rooftops sprawls a rippling sea of chimneys, some white, some terracotta, sprouting directly from the ground. These are not ruins or follies, but homes. Guadix is one of Europe’s largest cave-dwelling communities, with nearly 2,000 people still living in the earth-cooled comfort of these traditional troglodyte houses.
Visit the Barrio de las Cuevas to wander among these otherworldly dwellings. The local interpretation centre, tucked inside a restored cave home, offers a window into the daily rhythms of life underground: cool in summer, warm in winter, and astonishingly quiet.
Layers of history layered in earth
The town itself is a patchwork of eras. Above the caves rises the Cathedral of Guadix, a vast sandstone structure that took over 200 years to complete. Its changing architectural style, from Gothic to Baroque, reflects Spain’s own shifting identity.
Just a short climb away, the Moorish Alcazaba watches over the town. Though now weathered, its red towers and ramparts still offer sweeping views across the Hoya de Guadix basin to the Sierra Nevada beyond.
But the real charm of Guadix lies not just in what you see, but in what you feel. It is a town where locals chat in the slow cadence of a place that hasn’t rushed to catch up with the modern world.
Where to eat
For a meal that reflects the terrain — hearty, grounded, and seasonal — book a table at Braseria La Tinaja. This family-run gem, just off the cathedral square, serves local specialities with flair and warmth. Think plato accitano (a rich local stew of chorizo, beans and potatoes), lamb from nearby pastures, and wine from the high plains of Granada province. Save room for the torta de Guadix, a dense, almond-rich cake sometimes scented with orange blossom.
A castle worth the detour
If you’re in no rush to return to Granada, take the 20-minute drive to La Calahorra, a tiny village dominated by one of Spain’s most striking fortresses. The Castle of La Calahorra, with its bold red-stone silhouette, was one of the first Italian Renaissance buildings in Spain.
Set dramatically against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada, it looks almost surreal in its isolation. Visits must be arranged in advance, but even from the outside, it’s a spectacular sight, especially at golden hour when the whole scene glows with warmth.
Also read: Castles in Andalucia
A day to remember
Guadix is not polished. It doesn’t cater to crowds. And that is exactly the point. It is a place to explore slowly, better with a guide, with curiosity.
As with all our favourite places in Andalucía, Guadix offers not just a collection of sights, but a mood. It reminds us that real Spain is not found in queues or on postcards, but in the quiet streets, the unexpected encounters, and the stories carved into the land itself.
Contact TOMA & COE to arrange your personalised day trips when visiting Andalucía.
