Granada is known worldwide for the Alhambra, but there’s much more to the city than its famous fortress. Away from the crowds, the centre of Granada is full of places that often go unnoticed – quiet plazas, historic buildings, and lively local haunts.
If you want to experience the city as Granadinos do, try some of the best sights, bars, and restaurants that don’t always make the tourist itineraries. I was there a couple of weeks ago, and it made me remember just how great a city Granada is.
A different view of the city
Most visitors flock to the Mirador de San Nicolás for a view of the Alhambra, but there are plenty of alternatives without the crowds. Mirador de la Churra offers a similar perspective with fewer people jostling for a photo, while Carmen de los Mártires has landscaped gardens and sweeping views over the city. For something even more peaceful, Mirador de San Miguel Alto is a bit of a climb, but the view of the Albaicín and Sacromonte makes it worthwhile; particularly great for those sunset shots.
If you’re more interested in the city’s streets than its skyline, Calle Calderería Nueva, often called “the tea street,” is worth a wander. The Moroccan tea houses here serve mint tea and pastries, and the shops sell everything from handmade lamps to spices. While it’s become popular, it still has a very different atmosphere from the rest of the city.
History beyond the obvious
The Realejo quarter, Granada’s old Jewish district, is a fascinating area to explore. The Casa de los Tiros, a 16th-century palace turned museum, is a good starting point. It’s free to enter for EU residents, and only €1.50 for other visitors, and houses the city museum with its collection of historical artefacts and paintings that give insight into the city’s past. My favourite part of the building is the ceiling in the Hall of the Kings and Distinguished Persons (just rolls off the tongue, doesn’t it?!). The walnut wood is divided into eight sections featuring carved busts of heroes and kings.
Just around the corner, Plaza del Realejo is a quiet square where you’ll find a statue of Yehuda Ibn Tibon, a Jewish philosopher and translator who lived in the city. Another overlooked spot is the Corral del Carbón, an old 14th-century inn that was once used by merchants travelling through the city. Today, it’s a peaceful courtyard that hosts cultural events and performances. Unlike the Alhambra, you don’t need a ticket or a time slot to visit, just walk in and take a look.
Where to eat like a local
Granada’s tapas scene is legendary, but many visitors end up in bars that cater more to tourists than locals. For a more traditional experience, head to Bodegas Castañeda, an old-fashioned bar with jamón hanging from the ceiling and a great selection of wines. It usually gets packed in here, being so popular with the locals, so during busy times be prepared for a wait.
If you’re in the mood for seafood, Los Diamantes (Calle Navas) is a local favourite. Order a drink, and they’ll serve you a free plate of fried fish or prawns. Again, during peak times this bar is heaving, but for an authentic experience this is where to come.
For a sit-down meal, La Milagrosa serves excellent Andalusian dishes with a focus on seasonal ingredients, while El Mercader is a great choice for slow-cooked meats and fresh, locally sourced vegetables. If you want something a little more contemporary, Wild Food offers creative Mediterranean dishes with an emphasis on fresh produce and bold flavours.
A drink to end the night
Granada has plenty of bars, but some of the best are tucked away from the main streets. El Bar de Eric is a small, unpretentious bar named after Eric Clapton, with good music and a relaxed atmosphere. La Tertulia has been a meeting place for writers, poets, and musicians for decades and regularly hosts live performances. If you prefer a classic vermouth, Taberna La Tana is a great spot, with shelves lined with bottles of wine and sherry.
For something more unusual, Bohemia Jazz Café (Plaza de los Lobos) has an old-school charm, with vintage furniture, a long list of cocktails, and live jazz in the evenings. It’s the kind of place where you can easily lose track of time, and I may have done!
See Granada through a local’s eyes
Granada may be best known for the Alhambra, but the heart of the city has just as much to offer.
Make the most of your time in Granada. Take our Alhambra and Generalife day tour, spend a night or two in Granada, and explore the rest of this fascinating city at a leisurely pace.
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