If you’ve only experienced the beaches and big cities of Andalucía, it’s time to go inland. Just a short drive from Seville, the towns of Carmona and Écija offer a taste of Spain where Roman ruins meet baroque splendour, and hearty Andalusian cuisine is served with a side of sunshine and soul.
These two towns sit on the historic Ruta Bética Romana, a scenic route linking key Roman sites across southern Spain. But Carmona and Écija aren’t just for history buffs. Their warm, elegant streets are full of life, charm, and unexpected delights.
Carmona – a layer cake of history
Perched on a ridge overlooking the plains of the Guadalquivir Valley, Carmona is a town with serious historical credentials. The Romans called it Carmo, and the layers of its past are still visible in the walls, gates, and underground tombs that shape its skyline.
What to See & Do
- Puerta de Sevilla – Enter the old town through this mighty Roman-Moorish gate, topped with towers that offer sweeping views of the countryside.
- Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro – This former royal palace is now a luxurious parador (and a TOMA & COE favourite for a sunset aperitivo).
- Necrópolis Romana – Explore Roman tombs and learn about ancient funerary practices in one of Spain’s most important archaeological sites.
- Church-hopping – Carmona has over 20 churches, including the stunning Iglesia de San Pedro, whose tower has earned it the nickname “La Giraldilla” – the mini Giralda.
Eat & Drink
Carmona’s cuisine is rustic, generous, and locally sourced. Try:
- Salmorejo Carmonense – a thick tomato and bread purée, often served with hard-boiled egg and jamón.
- Espinacas con garbanzos – slow-cooked spinach and chickpeas with a Moorish twist.
- For dessert: tortas inglesas from Confitería San Felipe – despite the name (“English cakes”), they’re gloriously Andalucian.
We recommend lunch at La Yedra, a cosy spot hidden in the old Jewish quarter, where the chef works wonders with seasonal ingredients.
Écija – out of the frying pan into the tower!
Known as the “Frying Pan of Andalucía”, Écija is famed for its summer heat and its dazzling baroque architecture. It once rivalled Seville in wealth and importance, and you can see the legacy of that golden age in its richly decorated palaces and churches.
What to See & Do
- Plaza de España (El Salón) – Écija’s grand central square is perfect for coffee and people-watching.
- Baroque towers – The skyline is dominated by no fewer than 11 (yes, eleven!) church towers, each with its own colour and character.
- Palacio de Peñaflor – Famous for its curved façade and frescoes, this 18th-century palace offers a glimpse into aristocratic life.
- Museo Histórico Municipal – Housed in another palace (this is Écija, after all), the museum holds impressive Roman mosaics and artefacts.
Eat & Drink
Écija’s cuisine reflects its agricultural roots and Moorish influences. Highlights include:
- Mazamorra – a chilled almond and garlic soup, predating gazpacho (a personal favourite).
- Flamenquín – ham-wrapped pork loin, breaded and fried.
- And for a sweet fix, yemas ecijanas, made from egg yolks and sugar.
Don’t miss Restaurante Las Ninfas, set in a former convent with a seasonal menu that promotes local produce and a carefully curated wine list.
The TOMA & COE Experience
Both Carmona and Écija make perfect day trips from Seville; or even better, stay a night and let the towns reveal their slower rhythm after the day-trippers have gone.
At TOMA & COE, we love crafting bespoke experiences that go beyond the guidebooks. Craving a private Roman tour in Carmona, a baroque heritage walk in Écija, or a hands-on cooking workshop in a traditional cortijo? We’ll help you see the true Andalucía – the one locals know and love.
Experience the Spain you never knew…
