Tangier Guide

The Kasbah, from the Arabic “al-qasbah”, means fortress or stronghold. This imposing structure was built by the Portuguese during the 17th century, when they controlled the city of Tangier. The walls are not painted and remain in their original tones of muted greys and browns. The escarpments falling away from the exterior are impressive and would definitely have posed a huge challenge to any marauders considering an invasion. Once popular with famous people, writers and celebrities, the Kasbah enjoys a timeless quality, lauded in songs and praised in memories. Nowadays, the tiny streets, alleyways and stairs are a precursor to the more cramped and higgledy-piggledy Medina down the hill. From the main square, La Place du Kasbah, there are imposing views across the Strait Of Gibraltar and to Spain. Right here you may find snake charmers entertaining the big-bus tourists. Where they turn right, we turn left, to reveal the true appeal of the Kasbah as our local guide weaves us expertly through the labyrinth.

Housed in the former Sultan’s Palace Dar-El-Makhzem is the Kasbah Museum open daily except Tuesdays from 9am until 4pm for a modest entrance fee of 10 DH. Most of the collection concentrates on the antiquity period of Morocco’s history, namely its Roman past including an impressive mosaic floor recovered from the Roman city of Volubilis. There are treasures of the Sultans, including jewellery and furniture. The building alone warrants the visit as patios and stairwells, lavishly decorated with ceramic Arabesque tile and stucco, guide you around the collection. Perhaps the highlights of the museum are the sumptuous Sultan’s gardens kept lush and green by the presence of a well and the huge wrought iron safe in the treasury. What many people don’t know is that it took 3 people to open it – a novel piece of security. Information plaques are only in Arabic and French but most of the museum is self-explanatory.

The Medina or the Old City, is the walled labyrinth that is Tangier’s beating heart. There are several gateways to gain access to the series of seemingly never-ending alleyways and tiny streets. Much of the Medina is pedestrian only, as cars cannot gain access. You may have to stand aside for the odd motorbike but for the large part, it’s a thrilling, peaceful and fascinating experience simply to stroll and wander aimlessly through this charming neighbourhood. There are vendors around every corner and a myriad of stores to fulfil even the hardened shopper’s desires. Establishments selling everything from Argan Oil to rugs and silk clothing abound within these 14th-century walls. We find it to be incredibly photogenic; the colours, the residents’ faces telling a thousand tales, the mix of architecture and the play of light and shadows along the tiny streets. It makes for a memorable experience and leaves no one indifferent. Authentic to its core, an hour or two familiarising yourself (or getting lost) in the Medina is a must for any visitor to Tangiers.

The USA was among the first nations to recognise Morocco’s independence in 1956, forming a stronger bond to their already firm diplomatic ties. The American Legation as it is known, run by the Tangier American Legation Museum Society, is a sprawling facility spanning two sides of a street in one of the oldest sections of the Medina. Originally, a diplomatic building for the Unites States, it has served many purposes through its fascinating past. It was even used as a military base during WWII. Having suffered severe disrepair, a major rehabilitation project began in 1975. The deplorable state of the building caused widespread public support and donations came in from far and wide to fund the marvellous renovation. Housing a collection of furniture, art, documents and objets d’art (many of which have been donated by members of the Diplomatic Core) the building is also used as a library, a teaching facility and a cultural centre. It is a shining example of tenacity and hard work that has saved this building from disrepair. As the oldest American public property outside of the United States, we are always delighted to take guests here and show them a little part of American history in Morocco. There is also a fascinating collection of documents and writings from the famous musician Paul Bowles on the ground floor of the Pavillion. It’s a place where we always like to linger so our clients can capture its unique appeal.

Address: 8 Rue d’Amerique, Tanger, 90000; 00 212 5 39 93 53 17

Hercules Cave

Shrouded in mystery – and, according to Greek mythology, a resting place for the legendary Hercules – this part natural, part man-made cave is now a major tourist draw. Used as a brothel and even a concert venue, this impressive space is not a touristic site. There is a nominal fee to enter and once your eyes grow accustomed to the relative darkness inside, they are drawn to a dramatic opening at the far side that looks like Africa when seen from the sea, and affords marvellous views out to the Atlantic.

It is believed that this cave is connected to St Michael’s cave in Gibraltar by a series of corridors that tunnel underneath the Strait of Gibraltar. Maybe we should organise a TOMA walking holiday to walk them one day!

Cap Spartel

Just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of the city of Tangier, this peninsula of peace and tranquility offers much in the way of rest and relaxation. Affording superb views over the dramatic coastline, the area offers acres and acres of public parkland to which the locals retreat to enjoy the cooler temperatures and share their picnics in the pine forests.

The drive out to this area takes you past several Royal Palaces (including the King of Morocco’s summer residence) and other properties of the grand and mighty of North African fortunes.

The beaches down this way are glorious with wide stretches of open sand and good surf for boarding. Camel rides can be enjoyed on Arabian camels with one hump, otherwise known as Dromedary. It’s a touristy activity but if you find the camels on the actual sand, it’s a real treat to have a ride on the beach and makes for a great photo opportunity.

Le Mirage Hotel

This favourite haunt of the nation’s elite and international high flyers offers sophisticated luxury in its truest form. The sumptuous rooms, suites and private bungalows offer privacy and seclusion with all the extras imaginable and more; one of the suites even has its own private hammam. Decorated to impress but remaining firmly in the realm of good taste, the interiors and soft furnishings are strikingly beautiful. Its position, overlooking the dramatic Atlantic coastline offers unrivaled views. The hospitality and service is, as one would expect in such an establishment, absolutely stellar and the restaurant (open to non-residents) serves superb seafood and fish. For us, simply enjoying a coffee on the terrace gives you a taste of how the other half live.

Address: Les Grottes d’Hercule, Tanger, 2198; 00 212 539 333332 / 31 – Fax: 212 539 333492